« Archives in August, 2010

Sweep the leg.

4 hours.

Before we go on, a little lesson in aerodynamics, because it’s important that you understand just how important this step is. When you’re talking about wings and aircraft, you need to be concerned with three angles: Dihedral, sweep, and incidence. On this aircraft, The wings make a very shallow “V” shape about 3.5 degrees up from horizontal. That’s the dihedral. If they had a downward angle, like a Harrier or a Colonial Viper (either mark, pre- or post-war), that would be the Anhedral. Dihedral gives an aircraft horizontal stability, like the hull of a boat, and has various effects on roll rate, maneuverability, etc. At the factory, the wing spars and the center section are drilled together in a jig, so the angle’s dead nuts, and you’d have to try very hard to screw it up. Sweep is the horizontal angle of the wing relative to the aircraft’s intended direction of flight, the long axis of the fuselage. This is important. The RV series has a big Hershey bar for a wing shape, so the sweep should be zero, or as close to it as you can get. If it’s not zero, both wings better be the same. Most light aircraft don’t have swept wings. At the speeds we go, they’re not necessary, wave drag isn’t a big issue for us. Even the A-10 and the Incom T-65 X-Wing have zero sweep. The last angle is incidence. This is the vertical angle of the wing relative to the direction of flight, and this one is probably the most important one of these to get right. It’s especially important to have the wings at the same angle of attack as the horizontal stabilizer.

If you screw up these angles, the plane flies badly, and in extreme cases the aircraft is unsafe to fly. Messed up incidence will result in pitch or roll artifacts, sweep errors will make it yaw funny. Put it this way: unless everything is flat and symmetrical, the plane turns without you asking it, and your autopilot will detach itself from its mount, skitter up the back of your chair and strangle you with its own wiring.

This step is one of the biggest stressors about the whole project, especially on a quickbuild kit, because you have to make sweep and incidence just as dead-on as the factory-built dihedral. So you wind up using a lot of levels, plumb bobs, string, lasers (if you have them), and unless you’re very lucky, you might be mounting and unmounting the wings multiple times to test fit.
plumb bobs
What you do is get 4 plumb bobs and hang them off the leading edge of the wings. You then wiggle and jitter the wings until all 4 of them line up on a string, chalk or laser line betwen the two outboard ones. This tells you your wings are straight relative to each other. Then, you use a piece of safety wire, tied to a bolt through the tailwheel mount bolt hole and measure a reference point on the wing. The last rivet on the outboard end of the rear spar, for instance. Mark that on the wire with tape. Then, find out where the tape winds up on the other wing. If it lines up, hooray for you, you have a fuselage that’s perpendicular to your wings. Mark the spot on the rear spar, and drill, baby, drill. Or, you could be like me and not have anything work at all.

aft spar
See that angled bit being covered up by the square bit? That’s the aft spar, and even after cutting it down per plans, it still didn’t go in far enough to give me zero sweep. I had about half a degree of forward sweep. Not like the X-29 or the Su-37, but enough to irk me. So I had to unmount the wing and file the spar back. Even with my rough rasp, it’s a time consuming process. I was careful not to take off too much metal, because if you do that, it’s gone, daddy, gone. You can’t glue it back on. After two or 3 iterations per side (ask me sometime how much fun this is) I got them to zero sweep, which I then marked on the spar and the bracket (the square bit).
aft spar
This shot is pulled back a bit, and it doesn’t show much except how little room there is to do anything in there.

Then it was time to do incidence. To do this, it’s necessary to level the fuselage so you can level the wing relative to that. The plans have you using the main longerons as a datum to set level. One small problem. My main longerons aren’t on the same angle, because there’s an ever-so-slight twist in my fuselage. The PDF from Van’s says to average the values. So I leveled the fuse as best I could and got the incidence set on both wings. But I still haven’t drilled anything yet. Tomorrow maybe, after another round of measuring, checking, and realigning.

Um.. Dude… There’s an airplane in your backyard.

10 hours.

This Sunday was a huge day. I got up the nerve to put the wings on for alignment and some other ops that necessitate having the wings mounted. The way this works is that the wings are some thin aluminum skins wrapped around a thin aluminum skeleton that’s attached to a thick, beefy wing spar. The end of this wing spar sticks out at the root and slots into the thick, beefy center section of the fuselage. This is held in place by a fistful of close-tolerance bolts. For this fitting, I’m not using the close-tolerance bolts, I’m using drift pins made from 7/16″ hardware store bolts, like so:

gloss check
You can see here I made 8. I only need four, so if anyone needs some 7/16″ drift pins, holla. With these, the threads get cut off the end, then the end gets rounded. Then the wing spar finds its way into the center section and these go into the attach holes.

Not sure how much you remember about the configuration of my workspace, but one thing of particular interest is that the patio door is too narrow to accept the fuselage of an RV-7. I found this out way back when I took delivery of the QB kit, and just as then, I had to take the patio door off. Sliding glass doors suck. And they’re heavy. And they only get worse with each consecutive removal and reinstallation, so I’m looking at options, but that’s a digression.

fuse on wheels
I didn’t have the fancy lift-dolly the driver had when he dropped off the kit, so I had to fall back to that ubiquitous artifact of modern suburbia, the furniture dolly. I got the last two from Home Depot yesterday, and extended them with some scraps of furniture-grade plywood we had left over from a project. Fortunately I can still lift the canoe on my own, which I did while Shelley wrangled the dolly under the sawhorse up front. The back end was much easier, since it doesn’t weigh much at all.

ready to go
sliding door off, fuse on wheels. Don’t get too comfortable, Simba. You’re on the taxiway.

outside
We did it! Shelley’s happy to see this thing out of her craft room, even if only temporarily. But now we have a problem. Those wooden planter boxes to Shelley’s right are in the way of getting the left wing to where it needs to be for fitting.

wings on cradle
That just ain’t gonna happen. So the planter boxes need to go. Shelley wanted to take them out anyway, to give us more yard. Well, dirt at the moment, but yard eventually.

box demolition
So Shelley and I demolished the planter boxes. Chicks with air tools are teh hawt!

left wing on
Here’s one with the left wing on. Hey. Psst. Did you forget anything? Oh yeah! Drawing 38, cut down the rear wing spar tabs as shown, so there’s enough clearance to set sweep and incidence. Left wing came off shortly after this photo and the appropriate adjustments were made.

both wings on
Yeah! Now the fun begins. Measure, level, measure again, level again, measure some more, drill.

chickens
Take note, chickens. This machine here is the only way either of us will take to the skies, and the only way you’ll be using this one is if you’re in the middle of a sandwich or deep-fried in a bucket.

But wait, there’s more.

Not over yet. The canopy is still draining the life out of me at this point.

gloss check
After sanding the fillet as smooth as I could with progressively finer swatches of sandpaper, I couldn’t really tell except by feel whether or not something was smooth, so I threw a layer of gloss white on it. The point of this is to see how warped the reflections are, and to see if there are any egregious spots that need attention. And yes, there are.

gloss check
The fillet looks OK. After this was a lot of cleanup and cosmetic filling. Remember, kids, flox is structural, micro is not. With the layers built up as well as they were going to be, I switched over to microballoons and resin for final shaping. Microballoons are microscopic spheres of glass. You mix that with resin, adding micro until its the consistency of peanut butter. You want the little peaks to stand up on their own, because if they don’t, the mixture runs when it’s on a vertical surface and that’s bad. I did about 5 or 6 iterations of micro and sanding before I remembered I wanted to fly rather than build.

Some old business.

Remember how I said I wasn’t going to give you a play by play of all the iterations of goop? I lied. Here’s some pics of the process.

First round of sanding. This is just the black flox-resin buildup. I grabbed some stiff foam pipe insulation (redneck water noodle), a section about a foot long, from the hot water recirc pipe on the side of the house then wrapped it in sandpaper, which gave me a flexible sanding block with about the right radius for the fairing.


A few rounds after this point, I was ready for some glass.


Here are two of the strips of crowfoot laid out on the plastic, getting ready for wetting.


Yes, it is actually me building this thing.

The black electrician’s tape is the point at which I’d like to stop getting fiberglass goo all over the skin.   Forward of this,  I covered it with clear packing tape, which was a HUGE mistake, or at least it’s a huge mistake to use the cheap stuff.   I wound up picking most of it off with my fingernails in a time-consuming, arduous process that I’m not eager to repeat.   Word on the street is that the black vinyl tape plumbers and HVAC guys use (not duct tape) is perfect for this.  It also takes a couple of hits from sandpaper without turning into a scored mess.

Another shot of me.   Are you not entertained?

This time, I put the peel-ply on in little strips, which yielded much better results than trying to wrap long strips of dacron around that compound curve.

This shot, you saw in the last post.   This is after glass and before the next layer of flox, used to fill the divots.   After that layer, I switched to micro.   All of it tinted black.. Nasty stuff.