Finished Left Seat

3 hours.
Finished, as in, flyable but not pretty. All this interior stuff is going to get a coat of paint anyway. Deburred, primed and riveted the parts for the left seat, which have been sitting around clecoed together for a couple of months. Also finished up the flap actuator stuff, except the bolt connecting it to the servo. Baggage floors are riveted in, and yeah, i’ve just cut off access down there, but to be honest, I really don’t think it’s worth the effor to put them on with nutplates or make access doors. Maybe I’ll feel differently when it comes time to mount the strobe pack and ELT, who knows.

Seat in place.

Seat back adjust assembly. seems a little hacky, design-wise, but it works great.

Seat back retaining assembly.

Flap actuator and riveted baggage floors.
Pictures are a little blurry.. I’m using my iPhone as a camera, and when the light gets low, the pics get bad.

Some new stuff

4 hours.
Well, i went and did it.. I got an engine.. A Lycoming O-360-F1A6 with 951 hours on it. After getting it home, I realized some work will have to be done to make it viable, if I may understate the case a bit. Right now, it’s sitting on an engine stand with about 7 gallons of oil in it, bathing the internals so it doesn’t turn into a hunk of rust. It’s a little frightening, since it’s really big, and really heavy, and I don’t know any A&P’s. The guy I was going to call is… unavailable. It will need a forward-facing sump so I can throw on an AFP FI system and I’ll need to get a governor that matches my prop. I hope this doesn’t turn out to be a nasty, expensive mess. Until now I had no idea how many places one of those damned things could leak from, and part of it’s my fault. I just HAD to pull off a rocker cover and get a peek at the valves, which, as advertised, were wet with oil.
So I whacked together an engine stand based on Mike Snook’s design. It was a logistical nightmare, renting the hoist, taking delivery, and actually mounting the thing on the stand. Until you’ve done it, you have no idea how awkward an ungainly a 200+ pound block of inert metal can be, especially when it must be treated with extreme care and be manipulated a certain way. What I would have given for a Caterpillar PWL. Then there was the whole oil issue. 7 gallons of oil tries to squeeze out every hole and crack. It runs out the hollow crank in front, it runs out of the magneto gaskets, it runs out of the rocker cover I took off, it runs out of the cooler fittings. I really didn’t think about all that when I flipped it over on the rotisserie and started funneling the Texas Tea into the inverted sump. So I had to find and plug every leak. As it is, I’ve still got a funnel under the rocker and a rag under the centerline of the engine on the T-bar of the stand. It’s scary. I took the ring gear off and sealed up the front with a 2″ jim cap from the aviation department at B&B hardware, but it’s not as nice as one of those little red caps on the TMX-360 on the Mattituck site. I searched high and low for one of those to no avail.
Meanwhile, here are some pics of the engine in the days of and after its arrival:

First day I was able to mess with it. Got the thing hoisted up in preparation for mounting on the stand. Simba is very curious about this heavy thing emanating all the strange odors in his backyard. Here it still has all the Cessna 172RG baffles on it, which will be removed later.

Right now, Simba’s had enough of this thing but he trusts it well enough to turn his back on it.

On the stand. I know it looks like it’s sagging, but it’s not.

From the front.

PICS!

Here are a few pics of the last round of builds. Seats, flap weldment, actuator housing, and tunnel cover. All clecoed, nothing riveted yet. Still working some things out.






Servo cover, flap actuator

5 hours.
Not 5 hours all at once, by any means. But I did drill the UHMW flap actuator bearing blocks, match drill the flap servo goodies, and began the process of getting it all into the plane. Unfortunately, because I don’t have iLife on this machine, I can’t exactly share the photos I took. Oh well, i’ll post them when I get a chance. Anyhoo, I feel like I’m actually getting aircraft stuff done, and it feels good to be able to work out problems and see how things are going to fit without having to run to VAF whenever I get stopped by some weird thing or other, and my hunches work out more often than not, these days.
I haven’t been putting in a lot of hours, but the skills do keep, if I do a little bit each day. I’ve been trying to do something, anything at all in the mornings before work. I’m able to put in about 45 minutes before I have to go in, and that keeps my head in the game. The tunnel cover coulda been.. Better. But it’ll be fine, since it’s non-structural and serves mostly to keep the occupants’ meaty bits, car keys, cell phones, and sunglasses from fouling the elevator pushrod. Also, it serves to cover up wiring, and that’s probably a good thing. I’ve also discovered that it’s very easy to round out #3 philips head screws if you don’t keep the driver bit seated. After all the fun, the flap actuator seems a little stiff, but well within the servo’s capability. However the center bearing block seems to sit a little high. The plans have you milling off about 1/16 of an inch from the bottom, 1/2 inch back, to clear the lip of the seat floor skin, but in this QB fuse, the baggage floor covers are atop the seat floor skins. This is all fine and dandy, but I think I’m going to file off 1/16 of the lower center bearing block, just to relieve the tension on the weldment a little. Maybe this is unnecessary, but it will make me sleep better. As I’m doing this process, I see the need for future tasks, like where the f am I going to mount the strobe controller, and how will I do it? Right now it’s looking like it’s going on a yet-to-be-fabbed shelf between two ribs under the baggage floor. Of course, this means I have to install platenuts on all those, But whatever, it’s easy and quick if you use the platenuts themselves as drill jigs.
Next weekend, Shelley’s going to be at her permaculture camp in the hills of Acton, so I’ll hopefully be putting in a bunch of hours, and maybe even paint something.

Seat backs and tunnel cover

6 hours.
Finished cutting and drilling the seat backs, they are now all put together with clecos and sitting in the plane. Of course, I did Shelley’s first, just to be polite, then mine. I’m almost done with the tunnel cover, but I need to brush up on my measuring skills, because even double checking, it didn’t fit quite right until after I’d worked it with various abrasives and cutters. but that’s almost ready to go. I figure, when i start back in on the project after an absence, it’s best to do small, cheap things to start, off, just to get the chops back. And if theyre things that don’t require drilling or cutting on the QB airframe, even better.
I also cut down my sawhorses to lower the main longeron to waist height, which helps a lot. Originally I was going to have a friend help, but the fuse is still light enough where I could pick it up by the firewall and have Shelley move the cut-down sawhorse under the main spar, then shuffle the original short one back to the tail. Next, I think, is the pedals or the flap weldment.

Working on the seat backs.

3 hours.
Just got back from our 4th of July road trip. It was somewhat truncated, due to large parts of Central California having the bad taste to be on fire during our trip. We couldn’t go all the way up Highway One through Big Sur, which is a bummer, because I’ve never actually seen Big Sur in any great detail before. What we did see was the backside of the foothills, where all the wineries and ranches are, and, more importantly, all the little airports that service them. I kept thinking, wow. Horses, woods, vineyards, little airports, and nice weather. What’s not to love? Anyway, to crudely segue back into my build log, that motivated me to do a little work on the plane this weekend. I actually got going on the seat backs again. I re-read the construction manual, and it looks like you’re supposed to do the pedals first, and the seat backs later. It doesn’t look to me like it matters one way or the other, since the seat backs are a discrete and mostly separate part. It matters to me, because once the seat backs are in, i can sit in the canoe and place the pedals exactly to my liking. The manual says to drill some extra holes for the UHMW blocks of the pedal assembly so you can move them back and forth, which is fine, but I’m aiming to start off as close as I can to where I’ll eventually have it.
So what i did was this: I finished cutting all the angle for the seat backs (pain in the arse, no chop saw), and drilled the side supports to one of the seat back panels, also drilled one of the bottom hinges. Now that I’ve done it, I can block out small chunks of time to finish that seat and do the other one. Then it’s probably on to the elevator push tube., then a crapload of painting.

I’m still here.

I’m still here, just so you know.. I’ve been offline for a few weeks because I’ve had other obligations and a couple of significant distractions. Work has been an avalanche of hours, plus I took the plunge and decided to try to make Mac OSX run on my PC, which consumed most evenings and mornings. It’s also wedding season, which means I’m sometimes trucking off to far-flung places to watch people get married. I’ve had family visits, a music festival, and quite a few working weekends. Basically, when I’m working long hours, I’m not too keen on building, which sucks, because it’s therapeutic as well as productive. Most often, i’ll plink around with the music software on the (now rebuilt) computer, veg out in front of the TV, or play some Wii with Shelley. These are all fine activities, but it’s killing the building. Problem is, I don’t have that many of what I call ‘anchor days,’ where a lot of stuff gets done and i can immerse myself in aviation tech, swimming in the plans and manuals, and setting up a whole lot of small tasks that I can do in half an hour to a couple of hours. And of course, Shelley gets first dibs on most of my spare time, which is how it’s supposed to go, I reckon. Next week, Shelley and I will be driving up the coast and staying in various Central CA hotels, walking in the woods with the dog, that sort of thing, so no building will get done then either. When I get back, I’m on a Hyundai commercial, and I should be able to squeeze some time in then.

Lots of cans, lots of worms.

3 hours.
Drilled the stops for the seat backs, and had planned to get more done, but wound up pondering the plans and the manual for most of that time, which I guess is good. I should have stuck to the agenda and just built the seat backs like I planned, since they’re a fairly discrete part of the process, but I went down the rabbit hole when I wondered ‘just how does that flap torque tube go in there?’ It’s a valid question, it’s attached to the same part as the seat back stops, in that it’s all about the baggage compartment bulkhead in that area.

In the above photo you see how the stops are clecoed together. There are two levels of adjustment for the seat back position. There is an angle attached to the aft flange of the baggage compartment bulkhead, which has room between it and the bulkhead for the seat back support, then another piece of aluminum forward of that, lifted by a shim, which provides the second. The first one I did was a little rough, since this is the first time I’ve had to drill upside-down. Important safety tip: Make damn sure there are no gaps between your safety glasses and your eyes. All the chips come right at you or close enough to be hazardous. If I was a D&D dork, I’d say you get -5 luck vs aluminum shavings in this situation.

The photo above is where it got interesting, at least to me. This was the point at which I realized I had to start pulling out the floor panels, which are screwed in on the quickbuild fuse when it arrives. The baggage floor panels and the flap access panels have to go so I can get in there and mount the UHMW bearing blocks for the flap torque tube. This only reared its ugly head because currently my subprocess involves drawings 20 and 23, 20 being the meat of the baggage bulkhead and 23 being the seat backs themselves. This is where going through the construction manual and verifying the build on the quickbuild is key; you don’t want to skip any steps. Not only that, you want to know what all the odd little parts look like when you need them, and if they were supposed to be installed in an earlier step and they’re not, you have to backtrack, and the longer parts are out of mind, the more chances are they’ll get misplaced or miscategorized. It’s all very well and good when you’re checking off the packing list and you know you’ve got everything, but it’s quite another when you have to find something later you haven’t seen in a few months, unless you’re frighteningly anal about how you store everything.

This is just a gratuitous overhead photo showing the new shop layout, sans wings. Sort of. Note how much room i’ve got to work now.

Seat backs and tray tables in the upright position.

2 hours.
That’s a guesstimate, since I did a few little things over the last week. I started a new job last Monday, and the hours are usually 10-7, so I have some time to build in the mornings. The weekend was spent moving the wings into the garage, and rearranging the fuse so I have more room to work on it. I moved my rollaway toolbox and saw/grinder table into the shop as well, and I was able to unpack my ‘survival kit,’ that being all the tools I had crammed into my small toolbox to do the work on the wings. All the tools are now back in the rollie, and it’s nice not to have to dig for things I know are there or make trips back and forth to the garage when I want to scotchbrite-wheel or bandsaw something. What I managed to do on the actual airplane was rivet the elevator bellcrank and install it in the aft fuse. I also got some work done on the seat backs, like cutting the angle metal and finding all the parts I’ll need to fabricate the assembly. The process just got a little more interesting. Since I got the quickbuild kit, I essentially skipped right over the transition phase from handholding to here’s-the-plans-get-on-it. In a way it simplifies things a bit, because at this point, the construction manual pretty much just tells you to look at a drawing, make or prep all the parts on it, and go to town. Drawings, I get.
Another thing that was interesting is how low the part count seems when you take out all the bagged and boxed items necessary for things like seat belt cables, brake cylinders, trim servos, and other things I tend to categorize as ‘fiddly bits’ at the moment. Now, at this point, I think I’m going to take another non-build day and organize all the various bits and pieces like I should have done when I got the kit. I marked it all off on the packing list, but I did not build a bunch of shelves and drawers and file everything. I’m going to do this as soon as I can, because if I have to sort through a bunch of undifferentiated stamped aluminum bits to find what I’m looking for, I’m going to get cranky. I think the best way to organize all this stuff is by drawing number, if possible. I’ll have to work out a good methodology for it this weekend. Shelley’s parents are in town so I probably won’t get to build much, but I might get an hour or two somewhere.
Probably what’ll happen is I’ll get the seat backs and elevator pushrods prepped, then set it all aside for a paint morning, but before that, I have to cut down the sawhorses to lower the plane to working height.
I’ll shoot some pics of the shop next chance I get, maybe tomorrow.

Drilled the pitot assembly.

1 hour.
This wasn’t much, but it was a big deal to me. the Dynon pitot/AoA probe comes with the housing filled with silicon goop, to keep the tubes from rattling around and chafing. This is fine, except for some of them come with the tubes shoved all the way to one side silicon-gooped in right up against the wide part of the flange where you’re supposed to drill the mounting screws. I also needed to get down to Cameron Supply, the local machine-shop supply house, to pick up some #36 drill bits, which is what you’re supposed to use on holes to be tapped for 6-32 screws. The screws I got from the aviation dept at B&B Hardware in Culver city a while back; stainless steel pan-head philips screws. But what vexed me, other than working 12 hour days on Speed Racer and facilitating the rape of yet another of my childhood memories, was putting a drill through one of the air lines and racking up $300 worth of frakkage. After lots of careful measurement and putting a piece of tape on the drill bit as a depth gauge for safety, I actually drilled out the pitot assembly. I tapped the holes for 6-32 with no issues or problems. Although on the hole where the air lines rub up against the flange, I had to cut the screw off to about 3/16″ so it would go all the way in. and not kink the aluminum air line on the other side.
So what to do next? I’m not really sure. there’s lot’s of fuselage work I need to get into, but I think I should move the wings to the garage and move the big rollaway toolbox into the shop. I also need to cut off the legs of the sawhorses so the longerons are about waist height, then I can get in there and move around a little better.