2 hours.
Instead of hemming and hawing about not having the switches I need, I went ahead and wired up some of the stuff I actually do have. Power was available, so I wired up the harness for the EFIS and the power/ground for the RDAC engine monitor module. I’ll let the video explain it:
OK, I said “firewall,” but I meant “subpanel.” I’m new at this whole video thing.
3 hours.
Most of them, anyway. Turns out I need a couple of different switches. I need a dual-pole on/off switch for the battery master, because I’m deleting the alternator field enable. The idea with the alternator field enable is that if for some reason your alternator goes blooey and starts up with runaway voltage, you can shut off the field before it zaps all your goodies. This is a throwback to the days when alternators sucked, some time in the early sixties, and the chances of you interrupting the field before your fancy MFD’s and other computerized avionics surge out are next to nil. Modern alternators are usually pretty bulletproof, unless you switch the field on and off while it’s spinning. Doing that can reduce the life of the alternator from thousands of hours to hundreds, so the battery master is going to be a DPST switch that engages the battery master and the alt field simultaneously. I had to order another couple of switches from B and C also: the one from Van’s sucks. It has no keyway or tabbed anti-rotation ring, and it doesn’t even have a hex nut on the panel side. So I ordered a DPDT switch for the flaps. I also brain-farted on my initial layout, and forgot the heated pitot switch. Ran the circuit for it, allotted amperage for it, forgot to put it on the panel. So I needed another SPST on/off switch for that, because the one I had originally for the pitot heat was repurposed for the pax enable switch.
Yesterday was a bit of a milestone. I installed the firewall grounding plate, which is a brass plate with a bunch of fast-on tabs on one side. The other side is in contact with the firewall, and a big 5/16 brass bolt goes through the firewall, where it becomes the attach point for the negative battery cable and the braided strap that connects to the engine block. With this in place, I ran the wires for the master battery switch. For the first time, I connected the positive power lead to the battery. When the battery master switch was turned on, there was a satisfying >clunk< from the firewall, which meant that the master contactor was working. I checked the main and endurance busses and read 12.5 volts on the multimeter. I didn't hook up the starter switches. I'm still puzzling out wiring runs, But I'll get to that soon enough.
4 hours.
I got a call from Don Rivera at Airflow Performance regarding the quandaries of my servo installation. He said I was basically on the right track, but that yes, i’d have to make my own brackets for the throttle and mix cables. Also, there’s no reversing the butterfly. I found about $200 worth of hoses that can go back to Van’s, and I got the temperature probes installed and the extensions run back to the RDAC. I almost got the breather tube done, but I really need to get off the FWF install and go back to wiring and avionics. Basically, I puttered around, unfocused, looking for an easy way into the next step. There isn’t one. I don’t have the cables, hoses, or fittings I need to do more FWF, so screw it, I’m going back to electrical.
This is harder than you might think. Every time I walk past the engine, I find something to distract me. All these little distractions start out as “I wonder if THIS will work.” As a result, I got nothing significant done, other than the installation of a couple of probes and senders. Not that this is a bad thing, but if I had focused on avionics and panel, I could have gotten a lot more done, since I have all the stuff required to get that done.
I’m also looking at the baffles. I suspect I might have some problems where the prop governor sits, and that is going to suck.
4 hours.
I took a drive down to Earl’s on Hawthorne at the 405 freeway to pick up the fittings I need to plumb the purge line. I wanted to save the 11 bucks for shipping, which is ricockulous considering it’s all of 15 miles away from my house. I’m glad I went. The place is an absolute gold mine of high performance vehicle plumbing. They have everything, including the weird stuff, and best of all, they can custom-make hoses while you wait. Still a pricey run. The stainless steel bulkhead elbow for the firewall was not cheap by any stretch. After I got back, I pulled the wings out of the garage to finish up all the old business, which was fabbing conduit support angles, installing Adel clamps, fitting and plugging in the pitot tube, and wiring the autopilot roll servo. I also spent a good amount of time rubbing off old masking tape glue with MEK. Don’t leave masking tape on anything for too long, especially in a hot, dry place The tape turns brittle and the glue turns solid. On the right wing I got wise and heated up the old tape with a heat gun which let me get most of it off in one piece. The rest came off like the stickers Van’s still puts on every part, which never peel off cleanly. This process took a while and by then I was completely beat. I only got 4 hours of sleep last night for some reason, so I was a zombie all day. I figured I’d nap for an hour and go back too it, but I started reading the last chapter of William Gibson’s “Zero History” and I was asleep before the end of the first page. I woke up two hours later, still exhausted, but I went back out there and wired up the autopilot pitch servo.
Both autopilots got wired using the D-Sub method: Use barrel-crimp d-sub pins and sockets on the wires, then individually shrink-wrap them, then put a big shrink tube around all of them. I did this for a couple of reasons. First, the Molex connectors didn’t have a decent locking mechanism. I’m sure it’s fine, but I didn’t like it. Second, I somehow lost a couple of the pins. Embarrassing, but whatever, this should work fine.
I didn’t get around to plumbing my purge line, and common wisdom seems to be to wait until the engine is hung for this. But the longer I wait, the more stuff is going to be in my way when I do a triple-bypass on the fuel system, so I want to get the tubing roughed in as much as possible.
6 hours.
I finished up the pitot heat stuff, got the heat module mounted and the wires spliced in. When I get the Adel clamps from spruce, that process is done and done. It doesn’t sound like much, but it took some time. I had to use platenuts because I have to plan on an extremely limited amount of access once the skin is riveted on. And as an added bonus to my day, I found that some condensation or spray from the hose left some kind of deposits all over my left wing. This sucks. I might be able to buff it out, but it looks like the lime or whatever is etching the alclad. Flat Olive Drab paint it is.
I also got the MGL com extender mounted, and got a good start on mounting the IO extender, but the 6R8 screws I have are too short, so I need to get some longer screws from ACS. Always with ACS. I want to finish this plane so I can stop buying stuff from them for a while.
5 hours.
Yesterday, I should have stayed in bed. It was that bad. I started out the day by attempting to mount the RDAC (engine monitor module) on the firewall. I did this by drilling out one rivet in the F-601L stiffener along the top of the firewall, then match-drilling the rest of the holes. Would have been a great plan, except when I was drilling the second hole in the firewall and stiffener, something moved and I put the hole about 3/32 of an inch below where it was supposed to go. Boom, violated edge distance. I have an email in to Van’s tech support to find out whether I’m going to have to replace that stiffener, which would suck like nothing has ever sucked before. It would involve removing the engine mount and the landing gear. The other possibility, since I’m not really placing a load on the stiffener with the 5-ounce RDAC, is that they’ll tell me to “build on.” If that happens, I just have a slightly crooked RDAC, but otherwise it’s fine. So I’m kind of freaking out about that, and really hoping I haven’t bought myself a ton of work with this one stupid mistake.
Then it started to get better: The LA public library emailed and said my copy of William Gibson’s ‘Zero History’ was available for pickup, so Shelley and I rode our bikes down there to get it. But on the way home I almost got run over by an idiot backing out of the car wash. What does this have to do with airplane building? Not much, other than it’s difficult to work on critical things in a state of elevated stress. But I needed a win of some kind, so I decided it was time to mount the heated pitot tube in the wing. Of course, that ballooned into wing wiring.
This pic doesn’t show the tubes, but I originally had the AoA and pitot lines running through the two grommets in the rib in the bottom of the frame.
But it’s a couple of years later, and I now know a lot more about EM interference than I did back then, as well as what equipment I’ll have on board. I pretty much rewired the whole thing. First thing I did was pull out all the wires and cut a section in the PVC conduit to allow the pitot heat wires and AoA tube an exit to mid-wing. I rounded off the edges of the PVC to mitigate chafing, then ran AoA tube, NAV antenna wire, pitot heat, landing light, and position light wires down the conduit, breaking out the pitot heat wires and the AoA tube, while sending the rest down to the wingtip. The strobe cable I ran through one of the grommets from wing root to wingtip, which will help isolate the strobe pulses from the NAV antenna. Supposedly RG400 cable keeps this from happening, but I’m going to be making a lot of connections at the wing root (building in the guest house, remember?), so I want to keep the strobe cable and the antenna as separated as possible. Unfortunately, I can’t close the deal, because I need two more 1 1/16″ Adel clamps for the cut ends of the conduit, otherwise they’ll vibrate against the ribs. Those should show up from ACS in a couple of days, but it really irks me to leave things unfinished because I don’t have supplies. It makes more to double check later.
The other wing got the same treatment, but I’d already cut a break in that conduit to allow for autopilot wiring. I still ran the strobe cable through the grommets near the spar, because I’m not terribly interested in having the strobes make the autopilot twitch. Also, depending on the performance of the Archer NAV antenna, I might put another one in the right wing for a second NAV radio at some point.
After all that, I didn’t get the pitot heat module actually mounted. That’s next.
1 hour.
Redesign of the panel based on some thinking and some comments and suggestions from VAF. Notable changes: Master and alt bus feed are now to the right of the EFIS, putting all the DC power stuff there, safely out of the way of casual bumping. The second is the addition of a start button, eschewing the spring-loaded dual-pole ignition switches in favor of dual-pole on-on switches per the Aeroelectric Connection. The start button will actually be on the Infinity stick grip, but if that wire snaps somehow, I want a way to start the plane. Another significant feature is the addition of the Pax Enable switch, which disables the buttons on the passenger side stick grip and also safeties the connector when the stick is disconnected. There’s no starter enable switch because there’s very little chance of me bumping the starter button in flight. It takes an actual effort to depress the Infinity switches, so I don’t think the risk of accidental starter engagement is enough to merit the complexity of another switch. I guess I could wire an off-on-(momentary on) toggle in place of the start button that would serve the same function, but it puts an extra step in the checklist (disable start) that I don’t think is necessary. Also, in case of an engine out, I want as few things between me and the starter as possible. Phones and Mic have been moved to the lowest point possible on the panel, but i’m not going to put them in the armrest. Eventually I’d like to get the Classic Aero interior, which would cover up any accessible jacks in the armrest. There will also be a wet compass mounted on the glareshield or in the panel, I haven’t decided. Ideally, I’d keep that million dollar view free of obstruction , but I’m concerned about interference from wiring. Also, the buttons have been moved to the top, so that nothing gets shut off or bumped during turbulence, and the transponder has been moved to the bottom of the stack.
1 hour.
I finished changing out the on-off switches and toggle on the other Infinity stick grip. Now both grips will have the same configuration.
And this is what the finished product should look like:
Tested for ergonomics. This works just fine.
But there’s a problem. Remember that big fat blue cable in the first pic? There’s no good way to get it out the bottom of the stick, and on the right side, it’s pretty much impossible. I may have bitten off a fair bit of work for myself here, but I need to find a solution. One thing is for certain, and even though a lot of guys have done it, Van’s says “Thou shalt not drill holes in thy control stick, especially near the holy pivot.” The reason for this is that with a hole drilled in the stick, the yield strength of the tubing has just gone down the crapper. You can argue all you want about the likelihood of someone putting enough force on that stick to break it off at the hole, but I’d hate to be doing a high -g (for me anyway) maneuver and have the stick fold up.
So what to do about that fat blue cable? I have two issues, one is the exit out the bottom of the left stick. The cable chafes on the rod bearings connected to the ailerons, so that’s no good. The other is that on the right side, the stick is designed to be detachable, and it’s going to be, because the missus likes to knit and read books, and she’s not going to have a good time doing that if there’s a control stick waggling where she’s holding a book or a big-ass pair of needles.
In that blue cable are sixteen 20AWG wires, six of which are ground wires (earths, for my Commonwealth readers). I have read of several builders who have stripped off the blue outer cover and the shield, then connected all the grounds together in the upper cavity of the grip, which thins out the wire bundle considerably. This will allow the wires to exit the bottom of the control stick on the pilot’s side. On the passenger’s side, there’s no getting around it, there’s going to be a hole drilled in the stick for wires to exit, but not the honking 5/8″ monster required for the full cable, blue covering and all. That will also require some kind of multi-pin connector, such as a CPC circular connector or a DB-15, so I can detach the stick easily. It’s already sounding like a lot of work, but fortunately it’s not a messy job, and I can start/stop it at leisure.
1 hour.
I felt fat, stupid, and guilty for watching a hulu’d Sons of Anarchy episode with a big bowl of mac and cheese, so I went out to the shop to get something, anything done. I wound up replacing the microswitches in one of the Infinity Aerospace stick grips. The military style grip is really cool, it’s like an old F4 Phantom grip, with a trigger PTT, a four way toggle (‘china hat’ is not the preferred nomenclature, Dude), and 3 pushbuttons, one momentary, the rest on-off. I had to replace the toggle, because it sticks on in the up position and is momentary down. I want that to be my flap controller, so it needs to be momentary in both directions. I replaced it with one I bought from ACS a few weeks ago. I also got momentary pushbuttons to replace the on-off ones. I imagine those will become AP disengage, transponder ident, frequency flip-flop on the 430, and something else TBD. Maybe flip flop on my spare comm, whatever that winds up being. I might change one back to on-off and run the fuel boost pump with it, we’ll see. I can probably do the other grip tomorrow morning before work if I don’t dawdle on the internet for too long.
3 hours.
Yesterday I took a long lunch and drove down to TOA (Zamperini Field in Torrance) and hung out with Matt at MGL Avionics for a demo of the Voyager EFIS. The Voyager is the Odyssey’s little brother, but it’s essentially the same EFIS. Matt showed me a lot of the features and a quick run-through of navigation techniques, as well as walked me through the setup screens for various aircraft parameters, and If I wasn’t sold before I walked in the door, I certainly was when I left. I was going to buy everything on the spot, but their stock got cleaned out over the holidays and they’re waiting for a fresh shipment from MGL South Africa.
If you go to the MGL Avionics website, you’ll see some video of the EFIS in action, but I have to tell you, the images on the website do not do justice to the actual unit. On the site, the screen looks really loud and playskool, but on the EFIS, it’s as high-quality and pleasing to the eye as any of the Garmin or Dynon full-synvis offerings. The unit itself is a very nice powdercoated black and the buttons are a nice metallic silver, with extremely good tactile response. My only gripe is a minor one: Terrain above you on the HSI flashes red. Not a primary, saturated red, but the flashing is annoying. I assume this is to let you know that you are potentially flying into a mountain, but a nice option would be to turn off the flashing unless you’re within a certain distance of the terrain.
I wrote a check and left with an RDAC X-D engine monitor module, while Matt packaged up the probes and senders to ship out later. All in all, a very good experience.
After work, I went home to find my shipment from B & C had arrived. Problem is, I ordered two extra E-bus diodes, so now I have to ship them back. Lesson: Always review your online order when the “review order” page comes up. I did manage to get one of them mounted, but I didn’t have my computer with me at the time, so I couldn’t wire it based on my schematic. I also got the 60 amp current limiter for the main bus mounted on the firewall. That was a 10 minute job that turned into an hour because I had to make a doubler and rivet it to the firewall, which sucked for mainly ergonomic reasons.
I’m also ordering the MGL current sensor to replace the 50mV shunt. I was originally going to go with this, then decided against it, now I’m going with it again. It simplifies wiring, and Matt has assured me that it shouldn’t be so messed up by the Earth’s magnetic field that it will be unreliable.
Tonight, when I get home, I’ll wire the E-bus feed and diode, then maybe clean up some wiring back in the Jeffries tube.
