6 hours.
This is mostly just for me, so I’ll know what the rat’s nest is later when I try to decipher it for whatever reason.
Trim servo:
Blue/White –> black
Orange/White –> orange
Green/white –> Yellow
The yellow wire from each trim servo is plugged into the IO extender, while sensor power is read from the incoming 12v connection for flaps and trim on the relay board. I know it doesn’t make sense right now, but if you look at it, it does.
Trim aft DB9 connection
Pin1: white
Pin2: white
Pins 3-6: empty
Pin7: Orange/White
Pin8: Green/White
Pin9: Blue/White
The white wires are trim servo power, polarity is reversed to reverse servo travel direction. Currently fed by 3-circuit relay.
Since I can’t make tables here, the format goes like this:
Function, Color at Stick, Color at Terminal Block, Color at Device.
TrimUp: Green20ga–>White–>White
TrimDn: Red20ga–>Orange–>Orange
TrimL: Brown20ga–>White/Black–>White/Black
TrimR: Blue20ga–>Blue–>Blue
FlapUp: Red/Blk–>Yellow1–>Green
FlapDn: Red–>Black–>Blue
PTT: White–>Red–>Orange
AP: Black/White–>Black–>Black
Ident: Blue–>Yellow2–>Orange/Purple
Start: Green–>Red2–>Orange/Green
Stick Ground: Black.
Relay Load Ground: White.
Yeah, what a fruit salad, I know. But it seems to work. I wired a 12v relay inline for stick start, and it makes the solenoids go clunk if you have the mags on. I didn’t get the pax stick done, because I needed a DB15 (the olsdchool kind, not the VGA kind) and I didn’t want to stop working to run to Fry’s. The CPC connector I got from Mouser is too big and will obstruct the stick travel, which is really bad.
After that, I farted around with the fuel flow transducer. There’s no way to mount it on the floor in front of the boost pump without hacking up the cover, so on the firewall it goes. I’ll have to get custom hoses, that’s a given, but it looks like I might be able to use the VA-136 hose that came in the FWF kit for the inlet, directly off the mechanical pump.
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