« Posts tagged instruments

Some sensor wiring.

1.5 hours

Tonight I was able to do a little more work on the engine sensor wiring. Mostly it was about figuring out routing and wrapping hi-temp spiral wrap around probe wires, which is such a chore. Not as bad as Adel clamps though. I have to figure out the technique for those, because they’re killing my fingers. Anyway, the major visual effect achieved tonight is now the plug wires don’t hang out the bottom like sword-slashed entrails. I also got started on wrapping/routing the probe wires, but the wrap will have to come off because I forgot about the MGL current sensor that’s supposed to go on the alternator wire. Grmp. I also had to splice one of the EGT wires, because it was too short to make it all the way to the RDAC. I’m a little concerned about that. Oh, and I have no idea what wire goes to which cylinder. Yep. Awesome, that’s me.

I’m sick of this airplane. My wife is REALLY sick of this airplane. I need to get it done, and soon.

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Here are some pics from the last couple of weeks.  I’ve recovered my server-side image processing script, so I promise more photos in the future.


This is the mess before I cleaned it all up.


Flap actuator and servo reinstalled (Yay!)


Fuel pump reinstalled, lines secured.


This is me working on the endless process of dressing cables and zip-tying everything.

Avionics Install (almost) DONE!

4 hours.

Sweet FA got done over the weekend (New Years, hangover, etc, etc.), but today I finished wrapping and securing various wires, as well as rerouting the starter ground in a bundle instead of floating around all by its lonesome.

Only two things left to do, really, and that’s to install the OAT probe and reconnect the IOX when it comes back from MGL in a couple of weeks.  For now, i’m not sure whether or not to start the baffling or the FWF sensor wiring.

New sensor wires run

4 hours.

Ran the twisted triple up the centerline for the AHRS and compass, made a new harness to connect them, and finished the harness for the AV2 backup instrument.  The antenna inside the shop still dumps RF into the EFIS with the sensors connected, which is bad.   I think it’s largely due to bounced energy off the metal stuff in the shop.   Still, this solution is less wire, and therefore less weight.  It also combines the AV2 sensor input with the Odyssey sensor input with no need for a Y-adapter, which has no place in an aircraft.

But at the end of the day I was utterly foiled.   I don’t have a screwdriver long and thin enough to reach through the access holes to unscrew the DB9 connector on the back of the compass.   So that’s going to have to wait.

 

 

Wiring 3.0

2 hours.

Yeah, I know, not much.   I got new wiring in for the backup instrument.   I’m trying to minimize my RCA connections, and an ugly Y-adapter to combine both the IO Extender and the sensor package is uncool.   I’ve started on removing the 15-foot rca cable from the sensors, and I hope to have that done today.   While I’m at it, I’ll try to rebundle the wires so they make sense:  data cables in a data cable bundle, power in a power bundle, etc.

This head cold I’ve been incubating hit me like a ton of bricks last night, so the next few updates may look like 19th-century absinthe-ramblings, but instead of absinthe it’ll be one of the various ‘Quils available.

And as an added bonus, i’m going to get the GPS<->ELT connection up and running.   Hopefully I can do this without setting off the ELT.  That would be, um, bad.

Heated Pitot done.

6 hours.

I finished up the pitot heat stuff, got the heat module mounted and the wires spliced in. When I get the Adel clamps from spruce, that process is done and done. It doesn’t sound like much, but it took some time. I had to use platenuts because I have to plan on an extremely limited amount of access once the skin is riveted on. And as an added bonus to my day, I found that some condensation or spray from the hose left some kind of deposits all over my left wing. This sucks. I might be able to buff it out, but it looks like the lime or whatever is etching the alclad. Flat Olive Drab paint it is.

I also got the MGL com extender mounted, and got a good start on mounting the IO extender, but the 6R8 screws I have are too short, so I need to get some longer screws from ACS. Always with ACS. I want to finish this plane so I can stop buying stuff from them for a while.

Firewall fail.

5 hours.

Yesterday, I should have stayed in bed. It was that bad. I started out the day by attempting to mount the RDAC (engine monitor module) on the firewall. I did this by drilling out one rivet in the F-601L stiffener along the top of the firewall, then match-drilling the rest of the holes. Would have been a great plan, except when I was drilling the second hole in the firewall and stiffener, something moved and I put the hole about 3/32 of an inch below where it was supposed to go. Boom, violated edge distance. I have an email in to Van’s tech support to find out whether I’m going to have to replace that stiffener, which would suck like nothing has ever sucked before. It would involve removing the engine mount and the landing gear. The other possibility, since I’m not really placing a load on the stiffener with the 5-ounce RDAC, is that they’ll tell me to “build on.” If that happens, I just have a slightly crooked RDAC, but otherwise it’s fine. So I’m kind of freaking out about that, and really hoping I haven’t bought myself a ton of work with this one stupid mistake.

Then it started to get better: The LA public library emailed and said my copy of William Gibson’s ‘Zero History’ was available for pickup, so Shelley and I rode our bikes down there to get it. But on the way home I almost got run over by an idiot backing out of the car wash. What does this have to do with airplane building? Not much, other than it’s difficult to work on critical things in a state of elevated stress. But I needed a win of some kind, so I decided it was time to mount the heated pitot tube in the wing. Of course, that ballooned into wing wiring.

This pic doesn’t show the tubes, but I originally had the AoA and pitot lines running through the two grommets in the rib in the bottom of the frame.

But it’s a couple of years later, and I now know a lot more about EM interference than I did back then, as well as what equipment I’ll have on board. I pretty much rewired the whole thing. First thing I did was pull out all the wires and cut a section in the PVC conduit to allow the pitot heat wires and AoA tube an exit to mid-wing. I rounded off the edges of the PVC to mitigate chafing, then ran AoA tube, NAV antenna wire, pitot heat, landing light, and position light wires down the conduit, breaking out the pitot heat wires and the AoA tube, while sending the rest down to the wingtip. The strobe cable I ran through one of the grommets from wing root to wingtip, which will help isolate the strobe pulses from the NAV antenna. Supposedly RG400 cable keeps this from happening, but I’m going to be making a lot of connections at the wing root (building in the guest house, remember?), so I want to keep the strobe cable and the antenna as separated as possible. Unfortunately, I can’t close the deal, because I need two more 1 1/16″ Adel clamps for the cut ends of the conduit, otherwise they’ll vibrate against the ribs. Those should show up from ACS in a couple of days, but it really irks me to leave things unfinished because I don’t have supplies. It makes more to double check later.

The other wing got the same treatment, but I’d already cut a break in that conduit to allow for autopilot wiring. I still ran the strobe cable through the grommets near the spar, because I’m not terribly interested in having the strobes make the autopilot twitch. Also, depending on the performance of the Archer NAV antenna, I might put another one in the right wing for a second NAV radio at some point.

After all that, I didn’t get the pitot heat module actually mounted. That’s next.

Panel v2.0

1 hour.

Redesign of the panel based on some thinking and some comments and suggestions from VAF. Notable changes: Master and alt bus feed are now to the right of the EFIS, putting all the DC power stuff there, safely out of the way of casual bumping. The second is the addition of a start button, eschewing the spring-loaded dual-pole ignition switches in favor of dual-pole on-on switches per the Aeroelectric Connection. The start button will actually be on the Infinity stick grip, but if that wire snaps somehow, I want a way to start the plane. Another significant feature is the addition of the Pax Enable switch, which disables the buttons on the passenger side stick grip and also safeties the connector when the stick is disconnected. There’s no starter enable switch because there’s very little chance of me bumping the starter button in flight. It takes an actual effort to depress the Infinity switches, so I don’t think the risk of accidental starter engagement is enough to merit the complexity of another switch. I guess I could wire an off-on-(momentary on) toggle in place of the start button that would serve the same function, but it puts an extra step in the checklist (disable start) that I don’t think is necessary. Also, in case of an engine out, I want as few things between me and the starter as possible. Phones and Mic have been moved to the lowest point possible on the panel, but i’m not going to put them in the armrest. Eventually I’d like to get the Classic Aero interior, which would cover up any accessible jacks in the armrest. There will also be a wet compass mounted on the glareshield or in the panel, I haven’t decided. Ideally, I’d keep that million dollar view free of obstruction , but I’m concerned about interference from wiring. Also, the buttons have been moved to the top, so that nothing gets shut off or bumped during turbulence, and the transponder has been moved to the bottom of the stack.


Panel_v1
Click to open full size.

Stainless Steel Providers.

5 hours.

Oh yeah, it was a good day. Not only did it not require the use of an AK-47, I got a lot of momentum going on firewall-forward wiring. The overall schematic is still rather nebulous, but it’s based more or less on Bob Nuckolls’s Aeroelectric Connection, drawing Z11. In this scenario, there’s a main bus, an endurance bus, and a small always-hot bus. I’m toying with the idea of deleting the always-hot bus and just putting in a switch for the alternate e-bus feed because quite honestly, an always-hot bus is an excellent opportunity to drain every last molecular twitch out of an otherwise healthy battery.

Also, with the acquisition of a Garmin GNS430W, my avionics stack is now complete. EFIS, audio panel, transponder, nav/comm/gps, done. Good god, I’d love a cigarette right about now… But the upshot of this is that the the electrical picture is now complete. I have to provide power for these devices, plus the various other implements of flight, namely trim, strobes, lights, and autopilot servos. How does that work? Common wisdom is to start at the battery and work your way back. Instead, I ran loads for lighting and strobes, and today I ran starter and e-bus feed, and they’ll collide behind the panel in a Gotterdammerung of switchgear and fast-on tabs.

So the next step is, how to get the electrons from where they are to where they need to be? I had a few simple rules, gleaned from the Aeroelectric Connection and the mighty oracle of Van’s Air Force, to wit:

1. Thou shalt not run thy strobe cables alongside thy data cables.
2. Thou shalt not run thy data cables alongside thy power wires
3. Thou shalt provide ample room to service thy components after the holy top deck skin is on.
4. Thou shalt not run thy wires below tubes which carry fuel, for the drips from leaks onto that which arcs may beget the inferno.
5. Thou shalt not allow breath or light to pass between cabin and engine compartment.
6. Thou shalt not expose thy wires to sharp metal edges.

The first step was to figure out where to make holes in the firewall for pass-through of electrical cable and sensor data.


A little off from my original guesstimate, but this’ll do.  A 1-inch hole accommodates the SafeAir1 firewall Passthrough, a stainless steel gizmowith a rounded outlet to let wires exit in any direction without chafing on one side, and get sealed with fireproof tape and goop on the other.


After a little cleanup, it looks OK.


My original estimate for the size of the MGL RDAC engine monitor module was way off, and MGL doesn’t actually publish the dimensions of the unit in the installation guide, which is problematic. So I scoured the newly-minted mglavionicsusers.org forum and found the answer I needed, then made this ghetto-ass mockup from the battery box packaging and a roll of blue masking tape.  This made me reconsider the location for the data wire hole.   In theory, there should only be one data wire going aft, that of the RDAC itself.   All the engine probes and sensors should go from the engine to the RDAC.


How do you make a meal out of stainless steel?   Chew slowly.   Everybody gets all weird about stainless steel, and true, it’s a whore to work with, but remember, if you can scratch it, you can cut it.   This is a 1″ hole saw, about three bucks from B&B hardware.  The trick is to dunk the end of it in Boelube and go SLOWLY.   Make your pilot hole with a #40, then move up to 1/4″, which is the size of the hole saw’s pilot bit.   This one’s so dull it won’t go through warm cheese, but it serves as a good guide for the hole saw.   Then, if the teeth of the hole saw are sharp at all, you should be able to grind your way through the firewall fairly easily.   Keep it from heating up.  If it starts to smoke, put more Boelube on it.    The amazing torque of this Makita cordless drill is also helpful.  It’s relentless.   If you’re working above the battery, cover the battery with a sheet of plastic or something.    You don’t want stainless steel chips grinding away between your battery and the firewall.


For added fireproofing, I used a bead of my leftover Fire Barrier 2000 around the FPT (firewall pass through) flange, just to seal the deal.  Not that it’s very necessary; you get pretty much an airtight lock when the two halves are screwed together with the firewall between them.

And there you have it.   Starter load wire, main bus feed, and e-bus feed, all going through the firewall just like they’re supposed to.  What this photo doesn’t show is the firesleeve I forgot to put on the outside of the FPT before I ran the wires through it. It also doesn’t show the master contactor load wire I put in shortly after.  I put the fire sleeve on and clamped it down with one of the hose clamps provided in the kit.

Since I was feeling inordinately proud of myself, I figured I throw the engine mount isolators on there.   Still not sure how they go, I’ll have to check, but the red bolt protection nipples are a nice touch.

Up in the corner next to the VA-168 manifold, you can see the second FPT.   This will carry a data cable from the RDAC back to the EFIS, with room for future additions should I wish to take my life in my hands with some sort of electronic ignition.

And here I am, sitting in the focus of the Dynafocal brainprobe.   Maybe I can infuse it with some of my own sentience, such as it is.

I just got off the phone with my cousin, Navy SEAL and former SDV electronics tech, who assures me, despite my misgivings, that the switchgear on the panel and the power routing is not a problem.   Nor is anything else.  Where it gets tricky is the audio wiring, where impedances must be matched and other arcane spells must be cast.   I’m going to bring him out here from Yuma for the hard stuff, I think.

Let Them Eat Static.

1 hour.

Finished installing the static line. Much easier to crawl down the Jeffries tube with the flap motor bracket removed. I also made some .063 spacers for engine mount. Supposedly they weld it all up in a jig at the factory, and drill the QB fuselages with the same jig, but maybe the welding process stretches the metal a bit. Anyhoo, I had to make two aluminum washers to go behind the lower middle attach points, which, fortunately, are about .063″ off the firewall when the 4 outside bolts go on. They’re probably not exactly .063″, but they will be when everything is tightened down. I have a good feeling about it. I also got out the fiberglass cap that goes on the bottom of the rudder to see how it might accommodate the Whelen A500 position light/strobe assembly, and the answer is: not that well. There will be a need for fiberglass work here, I think. I’ll have to somehow build up enough material to drill and tap threads, or I’ll have to figure out a way to get a backing plate in there. Neither option looks like fun, but there’s gotta be some light back there or we ain’t legal. I know I promised photos, but I forgot to bring my phone. I’ll catch up with that later.